Madison Margetts

Fashion like most things thrives off its purpose and many things contribute to the purpose of brands and therefor their success. Brand philosophy and having a strong, established philosophy from the start is an important thing that factors into the outcome of a brand and that is because when they make ‘activist moves’ they seem performative and ingenuine. In a 2018 survey it was discovered that 76% of gen z and millennial consumers would consider purchasing from a brand that’s brands ethos aligned with their own values; Whilst 67% would stop purchasing from a brand that stood for something they do not agree with or believe in (DoSomething, 2018).  Other things brands do to add purpose to their philosophies is through collaborations with popular figures among Gen Z. Nike did a collaboration with young, superstar singer Billie Elish which was an upcycle of the classic Nike AF1’s. This collaboration recycled leftover materials from the singers previous Nike collaboration to create a new aesthetic for the iconic shoes whilst also like the artist stated to “take better care of the planet” (Billie Eilish,2022).  Nike continued their collaborations involving purpose with their Nike X Ambush collection. Whilst this collection still has a solid sustainability aspect the main lens and focus is about Football fandom blended with fashion; According to Ambush designer Yoon Ahn “fashion is an extremely powerful form of self-expression” and “This collection has diverse elements that you can dress up and down to express masculine and femme energy through the eye of sport” which is such a relevant thing and helps people relate to their want of mixing their sport and fashion interests together (Yoon Ahn,2023). Fashion purpose also comes from the current affairs going on in the world; Idris Elba started brand as a stand against knife crime and the mass of knife attacks in the UK (Luke Lietch,2022). With the 15,928 police recorded knife crimes that occurred in London in 2019 and since then 10,000 + attacks happening each year it is incredibly important that people are establishing their brand identities to protest such disgraceful and damaging events (D. Clark, 2023). Even sometimes brands must be controversial to serve a purpose. An example of this is Kim Kardashians Skims new ‘nipple bra’ which has caused a split audience on social media; The bra received a negative backlash from people who feel its promoting “being naked” and about ”sex appeal” it actually creates a product for survivors of breast cancer who had to lose their nipples in an attempt to save their lives (USAToday,2023). In conclusion brands need identities and purpose because even when they are not received in a positive manner by everyone it will succeed to the brand as it positively affects a group or even the world itself. 

Curry, L. (2023) How brands can follow through on the values they’re sellingL, Harvard Business Review. Available at: https://hbr.org/2020/08/how-brands-can-follow-through-on-the-values-theyre-selling (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

Nike x Billie Eilish AF1 Low (2022) About.nike.com. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/nike-x-billie-eilish-af1-low (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

The Nike x AMBUSH Collection Amplifies Sport, Style, Self-Expression (2023) About.nike.com. Available at: https://about.nike.com/en/newsroom/releases/the-nike-x-ambush-collection-amplifies-sport-style-self-expression (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

Leitch, L. (2022) ‘it’s about fashion-purpose’: Idris Elba shares his plans to shape DSYF into a global brand, Vogue Business. Available at: https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/its-about-fashion-purpose-idris-elba-shares-his-plans-to-shape-dsyf-into-a-global-brand (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

Published by                                    D. Clark and 28, S. (2023) London Knife Crime 2023, Statista. Available at: https://www.statista.com/statistics/864736/knife-crime-in-london/ (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

Camero, K. (2023) When Kim Kardashian’s nipple bra dropped, some people laughed. breast cancer patients rejoiced., USA Today. Available at: https://eu.usatoday.com/story/life/health-wellness/2023/11/01/kim-kardashian-skims-nipple-bra-empowers-breast-cancer-patients/71399578007/ (Accessed: 08 November 2023). 

Fashion revolves around many things, profit included; Businesses simply cannot survive if they are not bringing in added revenue. Profit however should have newly improved modern models that empower success and prosperity for stakeholders. Businesses that stick to their promises of enabling sustainable practises and caring for the planet should also be rewarded by consumers, with profit and increased value. The fashion industry is one of the most profitable and highest grossing industries globally with an estimated $1.7 trillion revenue pre-covid (Mckinsey, Euromonitor, 2021). The merchandising industry is part of the fashion business sector, and it involves focusing on consumer habits and trend analysis that can be reflected into buying, selling, and marketing in terms of window displays and mannequin dressing for shops and brands to lure an audience (Dillon. S, 2012). Merchandising is becoming more of a priority and is beginning to thrive more with fashion executives stating that it is their priority to improve go-to-marketing and merchandising within their brands (Mckinsey, 2023). Another sector that is reliant on a brands success is marketing and this has been proven during uncertain economic times. During a study in 2010 after the recession collection of 4700 companies were tracked with 17% of them going bankrupt; The 83% of surviving companies were found to have reallocated their funds into growth techniques such as marketing (Ranjay Gulati, Nitin Nohria and Franz Wohlgezogen,2010) (Erik Clausen,2020). The main thing for companies to make sure they do not do during uncertain economic time though is not being too aggressive and be empathetic with ethe consumer during a time of struggle and “get close to them when other competitors may have ignored them” (Ranjay Gulati, Nitin Nohria and Franz Wohlgezogen,2010). For creative directors to maintain a profitable brand for the company they must make sure to not blur the lines between art and business. This means taking risks from both the creative and the business officials whilst also measuring how worth these risks are worth taking. The risks can be worth taking however because it engages in clientele, both old and new whilst also bringing in a sizeable revenue (Ajaz Ahmed,2013). Another main priority is collaborating with consumers and always taking into account what they find value for money creativity wise (Josh De souza Crook, 2017). The main accounting reasons for a brands success profit and revenue wise is always going to be through collaboration and partnership; This can be collaborating with consumers, marketers, merchandisers, or anyone but the critical point would be for everyone to be on the same page and success starts from there. 

REFERENCES: 

Global Fashion Industry Statistics (2023) FashionUnited. Available at: https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics#:~:text=Revenue%3A%20%241.7%20trillion%20dollar%20industry,reports%20by%20Euromonitor%20and%20McKinsey. (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Barrelet, D. et al. (2023) Great Merchandising Never Goes Out of Fashion, McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/great-merchandising-never-goes-out-of-fashion (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Clausen, E. (2020) Council post: Marketing rules to follow during Uncertain Economic Times, Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2020/04/03/marketing-rules-to-follow-during-uncertain-economic-times/?sh=6be441c34a36#:~:text=Use%20the%20time%20to%20focus,marketing%20to%20be%20there%20waiting. (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Gulati, R., Nohria, N. and Wohlgezogen, F. (2014) Roaring out of recession, Harvard Business Review. Available at: https://hbr.org/2010/03/roaring-out-of-recession (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Ahmed, A. (2013) Bridging the gap between art and business | Ajaz Ahmed, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2013/oct/16/bridging-gap-art-business (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

De Souza Crook, J. (2017) Compelling fashion business: Bridging the divide between creative …, arts.ac.uk. Available at: https://www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/london-college-of-fashion/stories/compelling-fashion-business-bridging-the-divide-between-creative-vision-and-commercial-reality (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Dillon, S. (2011) The fundamentals of fashion management. Available at: https://r3.vlereader.com/Reader?ean=9782940447237 (Accessed: 22 October 2023). 

Fashion cannot exist without people, and neither can people exist without fashion. Through the many decades of fashion and its evolution and trends we have seen a vast arrangement of individuals involved. The current leaders of this space have suddenly become Gen z. Gen Z consists of people born from the late nineties until the late two-thousands, specifically 1997 to 2012 (Eldrige,A 2023). In the United States 40% of Gen Z consumers admitted to being influenced into online shopping which presents once again the evolution of the industry but in this case the consumer and economic industry of fashion (Mckinsey, 2023). During a Mckinsey study it was found out that 73% of Gen z try to make an effort to shop ethically (Mckinsey, 2023). This shows the relationship between the post millennial generation and its relationship with sustainability and the current crisis of the world and its climate. The collaboration between gen z and the climate crisis continues through influential figures such as Greta Thunberg who actually stated during an interview with Vogue that “The fashion industry is a huge contributor to the climate-and-ecological emergency,” and that most brands who display a fantasy of being ethical or sustainable are actually “nothing but greenwashing” (Greta Thunberg,2021). Not only should brands stay true to their promise of sustainability to attract Gen z they also need to adapt their marketing standpoints. Brands need to adopt a TikTok audience and market through that app to keep young gen z consumers attracted. Tik Tok has been downloaded over 1 billion times globally since its launch just 5 years ago with its fast-paced trends it’s a perfect chance for brands to create campaigns and hashtags for its young viewer’s (Marketing North,2019). Diversity is again another thing brands need to keep up with Rihanna’s Fenty and Savage x Fenty seeking to accomplish that through hiring models such as Precious lee who is and plus sized woman of colour and as she stated creates an “unprecedented level of representation” (Precious Lee,2023).It’s also extremely important and essential for brands to be doing things such as using people of all shapes, ethnicities and sizes because its represents a way huger target audience and caters to every person. The key people skills for a brand to be and maintain success would be the acknowledgment of everyone and do not be ignorant to any individual. This can be achieved through marketing and done through staying up to date with trends by employing fashion professionals because the importance of a forecaster in trend analysis is invaluable and when people feel seen or relate to what a brand offers, they want to invest their money and support a brand. In conclusion fashion cannot exist without people and people cannot exist without fashion. 

Ware, A.M. (2020) Best of savage X fenty vol. 2, Teen Vogue. Available at: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/savage-x-fenty-vol-2-best-moments-and-products (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

What is gen Z? (2023) McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

Eldridge, A. (2023) Generation Z, Encyclopædia Britannica. Available at: https://www.britannica.com/topic/Generation-Z#:~:text=Recent%20News&text=Generation%20Z%2C%20also%20called%20Gen,late%201990s%20and%20early%202000s. (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

Elan, P. (2021) Greta Thunberg: Ethical fast fashion is ‘pure greenwashing’, The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/aug/10/greta-thunberg-ethical-fast-fashion-greenwashing (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

Dillon, S. (2011) The fundamentals of fashion management. Available at: https://r3.vlereader.com/Reader?ean=9782940447237 (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

Savage X Fenty (2020) Savage X Fenty modelling photos. Teen Vogue. Available at: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/savage-x-fenty-vol-2-best-moments-and-products (Accessed: 15 October 2023). 

The planet is dying and fashion isn’t helping. An example of this would be the disastrous 20% of industrial water pollution caused by the dyeing and treatment of textiles (Kant 2012). This industry also continues to not only waste resources on a mass scale but also mostly on uses non renewable resources- 98 million tons to be exact each year including oil to create a range of textiles such as cotton and synthetic fibres (EMF 2017,20). The lazy and unsustainable ways that are destroying the planet do not just come down to the big manufacturers however, consumers also play a massive help in hand with the average persons wardrobe actually being 70% inactive with 30% of it not being worn in the last year (Fletcher 2008) (WRAP 2012). This is where the idea of a circular economy introduces itself. A circular economy is a model of production and consumption which revolves around the idea of sharing, leasing and the “re’s” (reduce ,repair ,repurpose ,reuse ,recycle ,restore and regenerate.)The main ideology if a circular economy is to keep materials and practises in a loop in order to not keep wasting and looking for more. Sustainability in relation to fashion would refer to the strive and action of change and alternate ways. Possibly one of the biggest factors of where to start would be the colossal water consumption and waste in the industry. Textile production uses 93 billion cubic metres of water each year and to put that into perspective that is the equivalent to 37 million Olympic swimming pools (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). However the reason we shouldn’t just be focusing on consumption is because according to a 2012 report around 20% of all global waste comes from the dyeing of garments and the final production stages of fashion pieces (Alexis Morgan). The united nations have a collection of sustainable development goals(SDG) put forward to take action against poverty ,protect the planet and bring overall peace. The life on land SDG collaborates with the fashion industry and its obsession with bringing nature and wildlife into peoples wardrobes. Each year billions of animals are tortured and poached for their materials such as authentic leather, wool or cashmere (PETA)  This is an outrageous and abhorrent way to continue. This is something the UN are fighting for to stop and although the fashion industry is not themselves murdering the animals they are bystanders for animal cruelty and have been for an extensive length of time. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY: 

Niinimäki, K. (no date) Sustainable fashion in a circular economy – core, core.ac.uk. Available at: https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/301138773.pdf (Accessed: 08 October 2023). 

Circular economy: Definition, importance and benefits: News: European parliament (2023) Circular economy: definition, importance and benefits | News | European Parliament. Available at: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/headlines/economy/20151201STO05603/circular-economy-definition-importance-and-benefits (Accessed: 08 October 2023). 

Chan, E. (2020) Vogue Australia, Vogue.com.au. Available at: https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/news/the-fashion-industry-is-using-up-too-much-water-heres-how-you-can-reduce-your-h2o-footprint/news-story/bdfea09be1ee1f28de0f32bfc10a71d4 (Accessed: 08 October 2023). 

Leather, wool, and other clothing made from animals (2022) PETA. Available at: https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/ (Accessed: 08 October 2023). 

SCHIAPARELLI

The art of Schiaparelli.  Elsa Schiaparelli was a pioneer for many things whether that includes collaborations of art with Salvador Dali or introducing eco-friendly materials into the industry. Her innovative values were truly like no other. Schiaparelli has upheld its reputation for daring beginnings through practise’s that achieve sustainability and keep Elsa’s identity alive. Current creative director, Daniel Roseberry recycled denim jeans through the art of reconstruction to create a fitted haute couture jacket. He remains changing the meaning of Haute couture from doing things such as repurposing denim, his constant use of gold hardware and moulded pieces of jewellery as body parts. He changes the meaning of what fashion is whilst also keeping traditional Schiaparelli values. Schiaparelli’s constant innovation is also what attracts its long list of celebrity affiliates such as Zoe Kravitz, Kylie Jenner, Adele, Lady Gaga and even Beyonce. Schiaparelli’s industry altering work all stems from its initial basic idea; They always start with a very simple garment whether that be a white shirt or a black dress and they transform it into this incredible sensation. It’s not just the sustainable practises that Schiaparelli keep their audience attracted to them with its also the power in which to evolve that people want and are interested in. For example,  at their spring/summer 2023 show they showcased a range of oversized garments with broadened shoulders. They even played on the classic pinstripe suit you would expect a man going to the office in the 1930s to wear. This stays relevant and moves along with the time of current fashion because it’s going beyond the binary and the norm of how you would see this particular piece. This show also had many shock factors to it which fits with the brand identity itself. They exhibited an array of dresses with faux taxidermy of animals’ heads. This divided the audiences much, with many saying this was cruel. However, PETA actually contradicted this by defending the brand and saying it displays the beauty of animals and it is actually a protest against trophy hunting. This shows how the brand can stir up controversy with its fast paced change that some people just aren’t ready for, but through all of this Schiaparelli and Daniel Roseberry’s main aim was and will remain to change the definition of couture, stay sustainable through the use of new planet friendly materials and to also achieve beautiful craftmanship all whilst doing this.